A Well Kept Man

After the participating in the triumphal return of the cows to their winter feeding grounds, we headed down to Morges for a festival celebrating the beginning of autumn. Morges is a beautiful little city on Lake Geneva with an old castle and a picturesque cobblestone street lined with artisan shops and cafes. Our mission was to attend the Night of the Scarecrows, which is described in our Lake Geneva 2008 Region Events guide as "a torchlight procession into the old town of Morges, the King of Scarecrows will be burnt, so that the grape harvest and the great night party can begin."

This event (now in its seventh year which earns it the status of 'annual') was kicked off by a dramatic play/musical where a bunch of actors dressed like scarecrows and normal people did a bunch of stuff on a stage that left us quite puzzled. It was in French, so naturally we didn't understand most of it (and it wasn't interpretive dance so Alli was of no help either). I did make out something about a magic hat, a queen, a red balloon, and a white balloon. I believe at the end is when the King of Scarecrows was 'burnt', however we checked out of the play once we saw the giant balloon creatures gathering in the streets.

We proceeded into the street with the balloon creatures and soon found ourselves trying to figure out what was going on...There were giant balloon scarecrows, stick balloon scarecrows, and balloon wine bottles and grapes. All of the balloon creatures were capable of walking which made things even more interesting.

All of the sudden a band appeared in a flash of red light (road flares I'm guessing) and began to play what would be the same song over and over and over and over for the next two hours. They basically were acting like the Pied Piper, leading the rats out of town...only we were the rats. The entire crowd followed the band and balloon creatures through the streets, while various actors lit firecrackers and flares and pyrotechnics in the middle of the crowds. We zig-zagged our way through the town streets with at least 10,000 or so people.

In the end, we wound up at an open field where the various balloon creatures were released into the cold night air (probably landing in France and causing a mass surrender to a giant balloon scarecrow). After the balloons were all gone, the fireworks began. They were awesome fireworks that seemed to barely make it above the trees, thankfully the wind was somewhat fierce so the embers were carried out of the splash zone of the spectators. What made it even more interesting was the band played the whole time, and each time they finished the song, the fireworks would end, the crowd would clap and cheer, the people would begin to mull around, and then the band would start up again with more fireworks. This happened for about 30 minutes, with about four or five stop/starts. It was quite the experience.

We never did see the scarecrows burned (which is really what I wanted to see), but we did get to participate in an impromptu parade through the streets with a bunch of Swiss people and I can tell you that it was one of the first times I truly felt like I fit in...

As we are now expert hosts (I am waiting for Martha Stewart to call and feature me in a multi-million dollar magazine, book, TV show, and world tour extravaganza), I thought I would create a brief questionnaire to assist the chambermaid in preparing for your arrival. Please keep this list handy should you decide to make the trek to Switzerland. The management thanks you in advance for you participation.

--------------------------------------------
Travel Dossier

How many persons are in your travel group?

What sleeping accommodations do you require? (Please select one choice)

1. Matrimonial size bed
2. Separate single beds
3. One of the above with a couch option for additional guests
   

1. 7 am - 8 am
   
2. 8 am - 9 am

1. 8 am - 9 am
2. 9 am - 10 am
   

1. Cows
2. Goats
3. Sheep
4. Marmots
5. Birds (limited to Swans, Ducks, Seagulls, and Geese)
6. Everything not listed here (Note: This option is limited to animals no longer capable of moving, as in stuffed.)

1. Alps
2. Valleys
3. Lakes
4. Rivers
5. Waterfalls
6. Plains/Fields/Arable Land

Cows...

Like you've never seen them before.

Did it meet my expectations? Absolutely!

We awoke early yesterday morning to drive with Katie and Tom (pictured below...one of the perks of visiting us is that your picture will wind up in a feature on this blog...priceless!) up to Charmey for the Alpine Descent of the Cows (La Rindya - Le Desalpe de Charmey). We were planning on going to St. Cergue, but changed our minds after Alli spoke with numerous colleagues who described the Charmey event as the one to beat. We weren't sure quite what to expect, but needless to say it was an almost magical experience. There was a parade through the city center of Charmey, complete with farmers, cows, goats, kittens, dogs, donkeys, horses, sheep, flag throwers, alpenhornsmen, a band or two...and it was packed.

The city also had various booths set up selling cow bells, wooden carvings (of all things cow related), cheese-mongers, food, beer, coffee, apple schnapps, etc. It was THE place to be apparently as the crowd overflowed this small town in the foothills of the Swiss Alps. About every thirty minutes a different farmer would bring his herd through the city streets to the delight of the crowd. You could hear the cows coming from quite a distance, but couldn't see them until they were right on you due to the nature of the streets (and amount of people). Each cow was either adorned with a fancy bell, plain bell, head-dress (ranging from pine sprigs and pom poms to full on Christmas trees) or "Jackie O" type hats (they looked to be late for tea with the Queen Mum I figured). We didn't realize either how fast these bovines could move.

I can now fully appreciate the running of the bulls, at least the part where people somehow manage to get gored when they underestimate the speed of these animals. If you are feeling up to the challenge, I would strongly encourage you to reconsider your participation in any activity where you are being chased by a 500+ kg ungulates (again, I'm helping those who may or may not have a report to do for school) through narrow European streets. The odds are against you.

The daring could have run into the barricade lined streets to attempt to assist the cows in their annual pilgrimage, however, the daring were only those who have spent cold mornings getting to know the cows most deepest inner dreams and desires. I was impressed with the dress (Bredzon) of the cow herdsmen and women, as well as the general celebratory nature of the Swiss. This was a great day, which included a brat and pommes frites (2 brat/fry combos + 2 Cokes where 22 CHF) at a picnic table with about 300 Swiss, and a polka band two meters away (I'm now specifically targeting children in grades K-8...How much did this cost me in US dollars? How far away was the polka band in feet? Hints: The current exchange rate is 1 CHF = $0.92; The accordion player had brown eyes.).

Please follow this link for pictures of the event. (Click on the word link in the previous sentence)

Oh, and I didn't even step in anything...so it really was a great day!

For our second act in Paris, we decided to take an easy day walking around taking in the Paris sights. We originally planned on a short walk, maybe a nap or two, lunch in a cafe, that sort of thing. At some point we transitioned to a walk around all of Paris. A few nap opportunities were capitalized on, as well as dinner in a Mexican restaurant (I know, Mexican food? In case you haven't noticed, I like to pretend to be of a Latin heritage which is usually good for some free grub at Chipotle when I habla español...).

I also was excited to walk around as I ordered some new kicks from Zappos.com (which Alli picked up in Minnesota as they don't ship overseas yet). The shoes were great, as you'll see from one of the pictures below. We managed to snag a crepe along the Seine (mine was simple, sugar with lemon juice, Alli opted for caramel sauce), which somehow eluded photographing (must have been too busy stuffing our faces). Alli also found a cool picture of Paris at one of those green booths that line the river, I'm sure it will find a prominent place in our home once we are back in the US for all to admire. Later in the evening we met up with our buds Kim and Andy (we tried to meet them at 10:00 sharp for a boat ride, we were there, they missed getting on by about four minutes...it was really fun screaming from the top of the boat for them to be back in one hour so we could go grab a drink).

Thankfully they were back when we finished our boat tour, and the four of us spent the better part of an hour looking for a cafe or restaurant that served hot drinks after 11pm. This struck me as very weird, as we went in no less than five places before finding one that would serve coffee, tea, and hot chocolate. They obviously knew they were the only ones as their prices were outrageous ($20 for a latte and tea, seriously...Starbucks doesn't even charge that much). It was well into the next day by the time our evening with Kim and Andy had ended, but we enjoyed being Parisians at least for a few hours. (Yes, Alli and I got sunburned...too much napping in the sun)

New Shoes, or Help! I'm Having an Eiffel Tower Baby!


Alli Holding the Eiffel Tower with One Hand


Alli asks Mark to move the Eiffel Tower a little to her right for a better photo


Eiffel Tower Leapfrog

Tomorrow is the biggest event of my time here in Switzerland so far...it is La Désalpe Festival in St. Cergue. The Dés-what? Let me explain as I undoubtedly will have pictures after this weekend to regale and amuse you in a future post. As the season has officially transitioned to autumn, the farmers must bring their cows down from their mountain pastures to the farms in the valley below. This festival provides the city folk a chance to rekindle their country roots by participating (if you wish) or spectating the cows descent. Cows will be decorated with bells, flowers, and headdresses, as will the cowherds (farmers) in their special Bredzon outfits. They will parade the cows through the streets and down into the villages below (I have read online you can help if you want, but you should bring disposable shoes for reasons involving digested food). We will ride a train up in the morning (the festival starts at 8 am sharp) and spend our time watching this even which runs through lunchtime.

I have learned there will also be a parade of Bernese Mountain dogs, alpenhorns & yodelers (they won't be parading as far as I know, just horning and yodeling), and other festival activities such as eating Swiss delicacies and trying not to stand out as Americans. Our friends (and former across the street Minnesota neighbors, that just happened to move to Germany for a year after we told them we were moving to Switzerland for a year...coincidence?) Katie and Tom are making the trek down from Bamberg, Germany (6 hours away) to join us on this exciting day. I look forward to showing off some wonderful pictures of me doing something exciting cow-related.

We spent the weekend in Paris being good tourists...most of our time was spent walking around trying to avoid looking like ugly Americans (Alli never has this problem, I on the other hand like to wear blue jeans and t-shirts, so it's hard for me to avoid this problem). We started Saturday by me trying to locate Alli at the Charles de Gaulle Airport without really knowing where she would arrive. The airport has five terminals (I think) and they aren't close to each other...I equate this to telling someone to pick you up in New York City by the tall buildings in Manhattan (at least that is how I felt driving in wondering how the heck we would find each other). Thankfully Air France uses the same terminal for most of it's Paris bound flights from the US and after parking in the garage I found Alli quite quickly (I didn't even have to pay for parking because I was there less than 10 minutes).

We then headed out to Versailles and spent the day wandering around this huge estate. I can't imagine what it would have been like to live in a structure this large, but suffice to say that it would have been fun riding horses through the house and hunting for wild baguettes in the gardens. We had lunch in a quaint bistro, we each had a croque madame (basically a grilled ham and cheese sandwich with a fried egg on top...delicious!) and Coca-Cola. Alli then took a nap while I got caught up on our mail that she brought back from Minnesota. We finished the afternoon in the Gardens of Versailles and made our way to our hotel which was literally next to the Odeon theater (the word literally bothers me, because when used I would think it means that it implies that words or letters are physically present, as on a page of a book. Sure I could use physically or actually, but neither portrays the sense of sarcasm or immediate surprise that literally does. Is there a better word to use? Do I have any school teachers or sage octogenarians who could provide me with a new word?)

We decided we need to have a French meal for our anniversary so we found an upscale restaurant (well, not too upscale...I was buying) near the hotel that provided a delightful experience. Rick Steves recommended a place nearby that we decided to try. (We don't personally known Rick, we just have a couple of his books. Which reminds me, if Rick doesn't have something in his book, then he doesn't think it's worth visiting. This has caused me to invent the expression "Rick Steves is a punk!" It bothers me when we see some cool building in a little town, or stumble upon a great find and wonder why there is no mention of it in his book. This is especially true when it comes to places we have been so far as it seems we like to go places that Rick does not. Hence, Rick Steves is a punk!) Alli had a wild mushroom risotto with chicken, I had roast suckling pig stuffed with something too incredible to describe (or I can't remember so I am sensationalizing it). We shared a trio of sherbets (How do you pronounce 'sherbet'? I say "Sherbert" even though there is no 'r' in the word. Must be a Midwest thing...) and spent the remainder of the evening walking along the Seine River taking in Paris at night.

As this post is getting long I'll leave the rest for another post. I've gotta go research our upcoming Italy vacation (we're going for 4 nights in October somewhere near Cinque Terre and I haven't found lodging yet...).

My trip to the various sights of D-Day was a sombering one. With each stop, I felt more and more saddened by the tremendous loss of life regardless of nationality. I started to the northwest and worked my way east as I stopped at the various sites. I began at the Sainte Mère Église cathedral. This is the place where the paratroopers landed after being blown slightly off course. The most famous was Private John Steele of the 505th Paratroop Infantry Regiment who landed on the spire of the cathedral and was basically a sitting duck for the Germans. He lived but most of his fellow paratroopers did not. If you look closely at the picture you will see a mannequin and parachute attached to the church steeple (although I have learned this isn't the correct corner where he 'landed').

I next stopped at Utah Beach, which was one of the major assault points during D-Day. All that remains now are a few remnants of the battle, including some bunkers and a museum with an antique tank, assault boat, and artillery. There are many monuments that also were erected as a dedication to the many men who lost their lives. Along the beach there were also men running horses on the sand (harness racing?)...it was an interesting contrast to what it must have been like in 1944. It was very peaceful watching the tide roll in, and I spent some time reflecting and praying for all of those involved.

I left Utah Beach and headed for the Pointe du Hoc Ranger memorial. This is a spot where the U.S. Army Rangers attacked the most heavily fortified German position along the coast of Normandy. This position was atop a cliff along the ocean and the Rangers had to scale the cliffs using rope ladders from their boats below. They lost the element of surprise as they initially arrived at the incorrect location, but eventually managed to secure the area which allowed further penetration on Omaha beach. The area was left pretty much exactly as it was when the fighting ended. There are many holes in the ground and concrete walls strewn about, as well as about a dozen or so German concrete bunkers still intact. The turrets used to turn the large artillery guns have since been removed, but it is very evident that this was a very strategic location to prevent the Joint Forces assault on Normandy.

From here I drove to Omaha beach, probably the most recognized beach of all of the D-Day sights. Unfortunately it was high tide so I was unable to see the metal strewn along the beaches, as well as the artificial harbors built to help protect the advancing Allied forces. Nevertheless this battlefield was a very moving experience and I can only say that the lump in my gut only grew larger the longer I stood and pondered the events of the war. There was also a memorial in the sands to commemorate the heroism of those who helped to liberate the French.

After leaving Omaha beach, I went to the American cemetary. I was not expecting to see the row after row of crosses and Stars of David. I have also had the honor of walking the hallowed grounds of Arlington National Cemetary, as well as various other military cemetaries across the U.S., but never have I found myself on the verge of tears so quickly than while walking through this one in France. The French government has given permanent use of the cemetary to the U.S., effectively creating U.S. soil in France. Say what you will about the French's attitude towards the United States, but the French I encountrered and the actions devoted towards remembering theAmerican sacrifice during the wars will forever cement a deep admiration for the French and the way they have honored our servicemen.

As you can imagine I needed to bail out of this area and go find something uplifting after this. I regret not seeing more of the sights, such as the British, Canadian, and German cemetaries, as well as the Caen Museum. Hopefully I will get a chance to go back and see more, but I hope that if you are reading this and happen to have some free time while in France or England, that you take a day or two and go see this place.

My first night in Normandy, I decided to try some of the local cuisine as I have read much about it. Normandy is known for three things, Calvados, Cider, and Camembert cheese. I sat down in the restaurant and decided to opt for the Cider, because I wasn't in the mood for a French beer (I have never really heard of French beer, so you can imagine why I would opt for the cider instead).

I told the waiter I would like the Cider, and he asked if I wanted the big or small. When I am asked about a big or small beer at restaurants, the large is usually a pint and the small is usually about 10-12 ounces, so I figured the big cider would be fine. When he brought it to my table I was a bit uncertain what I just got myself into, as it was 75 dl (that's right, the size of a wine bottle). Thankfully the alcohol by volume was only 5%, so in reality 3.75 dl out of 75 dl of alcohol. It was super tasty, like the sweetest apple juice I have ever had, with fizz. I'd bring it home to share with all of you but it is probably listed as a banned substance by the TSA (that's my excuse anyway so I can keep it all to myself).

For the first course, I had an onion terrine. What is a terrine? It's basically a cold meatloaf as Julia Child would say. Alli wouldn't have let me order this had she been there, but she wasn't...so I did. It was amazing! I am guessing on the type of meat, but I imagine it was probably swine (possibly wild).

For the second course, I had a lapin stewed with carrots, onions, and finished with a lovely sauce. This was accompanied by a mound of fries. What is lapin? You might see one in your garden munching on your tulips or lilies, or lettuce if you have a vegetable garden. They like to hop. And they are delicious!

For the final course, I had a tart tatin. What is tart tatin? Only the most amazing apple dessert I have ever attacked (except of course for my wife's baking, that is much better). It came with some maple syrup drizzled over the top, and was warm enough to melt the scoop of cinnamon ice cream.

After all was said and done, I managed to go through three courses, plus 75 dl of fermented apple cider, and still manage to make it back to my B&B without causing an international incident. Every once in a while it makes sense to eat what the locals eat, and this time was no exception.

In spite of the economic conditions caused by the financial market mess in the US, all is well here in Europeland. Why? I got my woman back...although she is still groggy from travel four days later. I guess when you never really get adjusted to the place you are visiting and then immediately travel back to the place you came from (remember, she traveled over seven time zones both ways) your body is just confused. She's back at work today, and I'm stuck doing laundry (we have a bunch from all of her/my travel and not doing any last week).

I will post later today about parts of my trip to Normandy...and the rest will occur throughout the week (including Paris and the Swiss Alps if there are any stories left that I remember). It has been unbelievably cold here (at least for late September). The high temperature has been somewhere between 50 and 65 the last couple weeks, so I think the shorts are in the bureau until Spring. As the doors/windows to the apartment are now closed most of the time, I have noticed that our apartment has heated floors. Very nice!

Have a nice morning!

We are running around Paris today trying to find the best tasting crepes (maybe...Alli probably has more exciting ideas).

As I have nothing interesting to write about, please check out these pictures from my trip to the Jungfrau Mountains.

Click Here

Hopefully this link works...if not, let me know and I will post the pictures on the blog upon my return.

Oh yeah, funny story (not funny haha, but funny in the sense that it proves that I couldn't find my way out of a paper bag). I led our guests onto the wrong train the other morning on the way up to Wengen. Long story short, I realized it about two seconds after the doors closed (which was exactly two seconds too late). We wound up traveling thirty minutes away from from our final destination, which caused us to miss our connecting train. Thankfully there were other trains that allowed us to make it to Wengen, although we were about two hours behind schedule due to the various departure times of trains (we also wound up having to travel on some local trains rather than the express trains, as well as having to purchase additional tickets to make it back to our original starting point). Next time, I will pay more attention to what the signs say at the train station rather than relying on my keen sense of direction (which apparently isn't so keen).

Alli and I were married five years ago today...I can't believe it! (Thankfully she hasn't grown tired of me....yet)

We are celebrating by meeting up in Paris for a romantic weekend in the City of Lights. Today, after I procure my bride from the airport we will head to Versailles to see the Château de Versailles. We have always wanted to see this palace and its superb gardens. Hopefully Alli will be able to make it through the day, but I am sure we could manage a nap underneath a tree somewhere on the grounds. Perhaps the evening will end with a lovely dinner under the stars or walk along the Seine River. I am very proud that I was able to live up to my promise of taking her to Paris for our 5th Anniversary, unfortunately she is technically taking me as I don't really have any money (I spent it all on fondue and rösti).

We are staying near the Luxembourg Gardens in the 6th Arrondissement of Paris at the Hôtel Michelet Odéon.

I am in Normandy today walking the D-Day beaches. I am sure it will be a moving and somber experience. As Alli is still in the United States, I decided that this would be a good time for me to go visit as I will be able to linger as long as I'd like...I have the sense that I will be overwhelmed with emotion for the many hundreds of thousands of men and women who gave their lives so many years ago.

As much as we have reminders of the devastation of terrorism in New York, Pennsylvania, and Washington D.C., and evidence of natural disasters all around our great Nation, it remains ever important that we remember the sacrifice that many sons and daughters made on the shores and hills of foreign lands. I hope that Americans continue to remember and honor the nearly 418,500 American lives lost during World War II, just as the nation vows to continue her fight to secure freedom for all nations. The numbers may not carry in the minds of those generations long removed, but the sacrifice and honor brought forth are sure to carry within our spirit for as long as the United States represents freedom and democracy.

This guy was awesome. I have always wanted to see a St. Bernard with a cask of brandy around his neck, now I have...I am not sure how much he weighed, but it was certainly more than me. I didn't get a chance to stand by him but I would guess him to be around 30 inches tall at the shoulder and somewhere slightly more than 200 pounds.



The second dog I saw was a North Greenland Nordic dog. They use them for all sorts of sled pulling activities. There were about 20 - 30 of them but they were all sleeping, so I don't have any action shots. They basically look like a husky but are slightly different in appearance (although I couldn't really tell the difference other than the coloring). It would have been cool to see them pull a sled, but that will have to wait for my next visit.

This is a video I shot while up in the Jungfrau Mountains. I apologize for the shaky camera, I was tired from walking all the way up there...Enjoy!

With Alli in the United States, I have resorted to some pretty desperate measures to make sure she is behaving herself. First, I have spies planted all over the Minneapolis-St Paul Metro area with explicit instructions to ensure she does not consume American food while in town. She is only allowed to have pork products, Nutella, and Coca-Cola without ice. Second, I have arranged for her to have the smallest rental car available in America (like a Hyundai or Kia or something) as not to get used to such comfy and spacious automobiles. Third, I will be calling her at random times (scheduled by her, so not really random) to make sure she knows the latest in international fashion trends, and if she isn't there then I will continue calling until she is home (unless I fall asleep before I reach her). Fourth, I have instructed the conference organizers to have a mandatory one hour lunch break where instead of speaking English, everyone is forced to speak in either French, German, Italian, Spanish, or Dutch. I have no doubts this will aid her adjustment back to life in Switzerland, as I wouldn't want her to get to winsome for the States and decide to cut my vacation (I mean sabbatical) short.

I will be off for the next few days on adventures. Today (Monday) through Wednesday afternoon I will be in Wengen, Switzerland. We are staying in a small mountain village that is accessible only by train (no cars allowed!). Hopefully I will get a chance to sample some mountain fondue, and chance marmots around. This is supposed to be one of the most scenic areas as it is home to the Jungfrau (Maiden), Mönch (Monk), and Eiger (Ogre) Mountains. I don't think this is where Shrek was filmed but I'll keep my eyes on full alert.

We are traveling via train which is ,supposed to extremely scenic. The train is called the Golden Pass and it provides panaromic views of the entire journey (which starts down by the Eastern edge of Lake Geneva and winds it's way up through the Swiss Alps to Interlaken, about three hours, where we will then switch to local trains to complete the journey). I will be with our friends Kim and Andy (separate rooms of course) so I will probably be up late at night as they are night owls. Nearby to this town are the cities of Grindelwald (residence of Richard Wagner according to the infallible Internet) and Interlaken.

I hope to snap some great photos to share with you all...Enjoy working hard America!

Alli is off to the U.S. as of 6:45 am this morning for a week of training in Minneapolis. I am already sad. I have plenty to occupy myself and keep busy, but it will be weird not having anyone to cook for and I will be lonely on my walks. The positive side is that I have the car to myself all week, the negative side is I don't have anyone now to make fun of....we will be meeting up next weekend in Paris for our anniversary (number 5!) so I am looking forward to that. Say hi to her for me if you see her this week, make sure she brings me back a treat or two.

I wasn't sure if I should have stayed up until 2am local time to watch my Ohio State Buckeyes play the USC Trojans in one of the season's most highly anticipated college football matchups...

I decided not to.

I am glad I didn't. What a joke. Oh well, beat Michigan and all will be forgotten....

UPDATE

Here's a picture of the two biggest Buckeye supporters in Switzerland (the rain should have been foreshadowing).