A Well Kept Man

My trip to the various sights of D-Day was a sombering one. With each stop, I felt more and more saddened by the tremendous loss of life regardless of nationality. I started to the northwest and worked my way east as I stopped at the various sites. I began at the Sainte Mère Église cathedral. This is the place where the paratroopers landed after being blown slightly off course. The most famous was Private John Steele of the 505th Paratroop Infantry Regiment who landed on the spire of the cathedral and was basically a sitting duck for the Germans. He lived but most of his fellow paratroopers did not. If you look closely at the picture you will see a mannequin and parachute attached to the church steeple (although I have learned this isn't the correct corner where he 'landed').

I next stopped at Utah Beach, which was one of the major assault points during D-Day. All that remains now are a few remnants of the battle, including some bunkers and a museum with an antique tank, assault boat, and artillery. There are many monuments that also were erected as a dedication to the many men who lost their lives. Along the beach there were also men running horses on the sand (harness racing?)...it was an interesting contrast to what it must have been like in 1944. It was very peaceful watching the tide roll in, and I spent some time reflecting and praying for all of those involved.

I left Utah Beach and headed for the Pointe du Hoc Ranger memorial. This is a spot where the U.S. Army Rangers attacked the most heavily fortified German position along the coast of Normandy. This position was atop a cliff along the ocean and the Rangers had to scale the cliffs using rope ladders from their boats below. They lost the element of surprise as they initially arrived at the incorrect location, but eventually managed to secure the area which allowed further penetration on Omaha beach. The area was left pretty much exactly as it was when the fighting ended. There are many holes in the ground and concrete walls strewn about, as well as about a dozen or so German concrete bunkers still intact. The turrets used to turn the large artillery guns have since been removed, but it is very evident that this was a very strategic location to prevent the Joint Forces assault on Normandy.

From here I drove to Omaha beach, probably the most recognized beach of all of the D-Day sights. Unfortunately it was high tide so I was unable to see the metal strewn along the beaches, as well as the artificial harbors built to help protect the advancing Allied forces. Nevertheless this battlefield was a very moving experience and I can only say that the lump in my gut only grew larger the longer I stood and pondered the events of the war. There was also a memorial in the sands to commemorate the heroism of those who helped to liberate the French.

After leaving Omaha beach, I went to the American cemetary. I was not expecting to see the row after row of crosses and Stars of David. I have also had the honor of walking the hallowed grounds of Arlington National Cemetary, as well as various other military cemetaries across the U.S., but never have I found myself on the verge of tears so quickly than while walking through this one in France. The French government has given permanent use of the cemetary to the U.S., effectively creating U.S. soil in France. Say what you will about the French's attitude towards the United States, but the French I encountrered and the actions devoted towards remembering theAmerican sacrifice during the wars will forever cement a deep admiration for the French and the way they have honored our servicemen.

As you can imagine I needed to bail out of this area and go find something uplifting after this. I regret not seeing more of the sights, such as the British, Canadian, and German cemetaries, as well as the Caen Museum. Hopefully I will get a chance to go back and see more, but I hope that if you are reading this and happen to have some free time while in France or England, that you take a day or two and go see this place.

My first night in Normandy, I decided to try some of the local cuisine as I have read much about it. Normandy is known for three things, Calvados, Cider, and Camembert cheese. I sat down in the restaurant and decided to opt for the Cider, because I wasn't in the mood for a French beer (I have never really heard of French beer, so you can imagine why I would opt for the cider instead).

I told the waiter I would like the Cider, and he asked if I wanted the big or small. When I am asked about a big or small beer at restaurants, the large is usually a pint and the small is usually about 10-12 ounces, so I figured the big cider would be fine. When he brought it to my table I was a bit uncertain what I just got myself into, as it was 75 dl (that's right, the size of a wine bottle). Thankfully the alcohol by volume was only 5%, so in reality 3.75 dl out of 75 dl of alcohol. It was super tasty, like the sweetest apple juice I have ever had, with fizz. I'd bring it home to share with all of you but it is probably listed as a banned substance by the TSA (that's my excuse anyway so I can keep it all to myself).

For the first course, I had an onion terrine. What is a terrine? It's basically a cold meatloaf as Julia Child would say. Alli wouldn't have let me order this had she been there, but she wasn't...so I did. It was amazing! I am guessing on the type of meat, but I imagine it was probably swine (possibly wild).

For the second course, I had a lapin stewed with carrots, onions, and finished with a lovely sauce. This was accompanied by a mound of fries. What is lapin? You might see one in your garden munching on your tulips or lilies, or lettuce if you have a vegetable garden. They like to hop. And they are delicious!

For the final course, I had a tart tatin. What is tart tatin? Only the most amazing apple dessert I have ever attacked (except of course for my wife's baking, that is much better). It came with some maple syrup drizzled over the top, and was warm enough to melt the scoop of cinnamon ice cream.

After all was said and done, I managed to go through three courses, plus 75 dl of fermented apple cider, and still manage to make it back to my B&B without causing an international incident. Every once in a while it makes sense to eat what the locals eat, and this time was no exception.

I am in Normandy today walking the D-Day beaches. I am sure it will be a moving and somber experience. As Alli is still in the United States, I decided that this would be a good time for me to go visit as I will be able to linger as long as I'd like...I have the sense that I will be overwhelmed with emotion for the many hundreds of thousands of men and women who gave their lives so many years ago.

As much as we have reminders of the devastation of terrorism in New York, Pennsylvania, and Washington D.C., and evidence of natural disasters all around our great Nation, it remains ever important that we remember the sacrifice that many sons and daughters made on the shores and hills of foreign lands. I hope that Americans continue to remember and honor the nearly 418,500 American lives lost during World War II, just as the nation vows to continue her fight to secure freedom for all nations. The numbers may not carry in the minds of those generations long removed, but the sacrifice and honor brought forth are sure to carry within our spirit for as long as the United States represents freedom and democracy.